A few years in the past I purchased a classic gold chain, prompted initially by type issues. 

One was the actual fact I put on so many fewer equipment – ties, handkerchiefs – regardless of nonetheless loving them as works of magnificence, and of craft. Sadly they don’t say what I wish to with clothes anymore – which is a product of each the best way society has modified and I’ve modified myself. We’ve written about this pressure earlier than right here, and about carrying handkerchiefs much less right here. 

A series as a chunk of jewelry doesn’t supply the identical choices for design and expression, but it surely does seem often, pleasingly, inside the road of an open-necked shirt, or on the again of the neck when carrying a crewneck or T-shirt. It’s one thing ornamental in the identical space of the physique. 

That look of a sequence behind the neck was one other issue for me, this time by way of what flatters me. 

I like carrying T-shirts and crewneck sweaters on their very own, however I’m at all times conscious that they’re not probably the most complimentary factor. I’ve a comparatively lengthy, slim neck and I do know collared shirts will at all times flatter me extra. They body the face and lead the attention in direction of it. 

This impact has develop into much less pronounced lately as I’ve bulked out (I’m just about one chest measurement up from 10 years in the past) however on the flip facet, turns into extra pronounced as you age and every part turns into rather less agency. 

The good factor a couple of chain is that it offers some extent of give attention to the again of the neck, nearly like one other T-shirt collar. I’ve used neckerchiefs to realize the identical factor up to now, however that’s a barely extra dandyish type and never one I at all times need. 

Different elements in my determination have been the truth that I like jewelry, however discover it exhausting to put on it in ways in which aren’t too daring for me. (I put on an occasional cuff or bracelet, however one thing just like the turquoise rings a number of mates put on really feel an excessive amount of.) 

And I used to put on a sequence after I was an adolescent, which got here again to me as quickly as I began making an attempt new ones. This did really feel like me – on some half-buried psychological degree. 

However what chain to get? Diving headfirst into this rabbit gap, one of many issues I realised was that the principle elements have been width and size. 

Chains for males don’t range in type as a lot as for girls, however in frequent with different jewelry (or glasses) a millimetre right here or there could make a distinction. Chains vary in width from 1mm or 2mm as much as very chunky 6mm or 8mm – although by that time it’s a really totally different look. 

Analysis on-line additionally proved fairly limiting, and it was seeing choices in person who introduced every part into focus. I’d extremely advocate doing so when you can; most excessive streets nonetheless have a jewellers of some kind, even when many of the choice is ladies’s. 

One of the best vary I discovered was at Michael Rose within the Burlington Arcade, and I ended up having good conversations with Michael there and different employees. They have been very educated and pleasant, and I believe I’ll do a second piece subsequent week on Michael’s opinions about classic jewelry and my chain particularly. After 30-plus years of doing it he has a number of.

In individual it grew to become clear that 2.5mm to 3mm was a superb width for my chain – not too delicate, positively there, however not too daring or chunky both. 

Subsequent the size. That is pushed largely by sensible issues. I didn’t need my chain to return swinging out of my shirt, however I do prefer to at all times undo two buttons – it simply looks like a extra flattering ‘V’ form, not tight and buttoned up. 

For that to work, however the chain not be super-long, one thing round 25-26 inches appeared good on me. Once more, making an attempt chains in individual made this extra concrete. 

One other frequent size for a sequence is one thing that hangs visibly within the open neck of a shirt, and is usually worn on high of knits and T-shirts. Lucas wears a sequence on this mode and it’s 24 inches – however keep in mind that he has a 17-inch neck and mine is 15.5, in order that makes a giant distinction. Certainly peak does too – it is a query of ratios similar to trouser rise or cuff width.  

Lastly, the design of the hyperlinks. If you look on-line you shortly perceive the principle varieties – belcher chain, field chain, curb, cuban, wheat, rope, figaro. There’s no level describing all of them right here, and the choice is basically a private one, however my normal recommendation can be to err in direction of the refined and extra masculine. 

Curb chains have specific associations, however solely after they’re large and chunky. Rope can look a little bit female and figaro a little bit fussy, however most others are good. As soon as extra, strive them in individual. 

Mine is a variation on a field chain referred to as a ‘thriller chain’ which implies that it has metal hyperlinks contained in the gold ones, making it stronger. It’s an attention-grabbing element that Michael mentioned lots of people don’t realise is there until the jeweller factors it out. Even many jewellers don’t recognise it.

Aside from the metal aspect, mine was 18ct strong rose gold – however a really refined rose, much less copper than many of the rose golds at present. Being 18ct it price simply over £1000, which was about what I used to be seeking to spend – this was an funding and one thing I used to be going to put on virtually on daily basis. 

Now, the issue with this logical rundown of an article is that it suggests there’s limitless alternative with chains – that’s it only a case of figuring out what you need. In actuality, classic chains aren’t that frequent and getting rarer. They are usually higher made, extra uncommon and higher worth, however the provide is finite. 

One factor jewellers typically do due to this fact – and did in my case – is lower down previous chains that have been initially meant for one thing else. If you take a look at classic items sitting on a bust in a jeweller’s window, a few of them will likely be longer than they seem, as a result of they have been initially meant for issues like hanging a lady’s cuff round her neck, or one other piece of clothes. 

Thankfully with me the one I appreciated was certainly one of these longer items, and might be lower all the way down to the size I wished. Once more, luckily what was left was sufficient to promote individually – in any other case I’d have needed to pay for all the size (and probably make it into one thing else, if I wished).

As for the pendant, this was a gift from my spouse, an previous pocket-watch winder in rose gold with tourmaline and bloodstone on both facet. 

Why that? Interested by it, I believe it’s greatest to go away that out – one thing like that is private, between the 2 folks concerned, and shouldn’t be overrationalised. The one essential factor is it means one thing to you, and in my case it’s one thing folks hardly ever see as effectively, that I preserve near my coronary heart. Or fairly near my chest.