Martin Andersson discovered a muse for his fall assortment: the “Prince of Cool,” jazz trumpeter Chet Baker.
Andersson, inventive director for Idea menswear, pored by means of photographs of the musician throughout his heyday within the Nineteen Fifties and used that as inspiration to create what he known as “the right fall wardrobe for our New York man.”
Within the eight years since taking the design helm of the lads’s assortment, Andersson has been working to “develop the world of Idea,” he mentioned, each when it comes to silhouette, quantity and texture, in addition to the addition of more-casual items.
That was evident within the fall assortment the place he moved past the model’s signature technical materials into an array of items with completely different textures.
However whether or not efficiency or life-style items, the gathering as a complete delivered what he described as an “easy magnificence. You shouldn’t must suppose an excessive amount of a few Idea garment. You simply throw it on and it makes you’re feeling good. It makes you look good.”
Andersson leaned into texture with chunky bouclé sweaters, corduroy pants and light-weight quarter-zips. The shearling of the season is reversible, cardigans and twinsets have been supplied in a yak cloth, there was a waterproof corduroy puffer and a flight jacket in technical wool with a detachable shearling collar.
However Andersson didn’t fully transfer away from the model’s technical heritage. For fall, he embraced each Movement Wool and Movement Nylon and likewise supplied an extension into Movement Poplin for shirts, a machine-washable, temperature-regulating stretch cloth that appears like a conventional gown shirt. The technical items included a single-breasted go well with jacket, a parka stuffed with Primaloft, a relaxed pant with an elastic waist, a hidden placket shirt, a shirtjacket with a light-weight fill and a technical wool puffer in a traditional automobile coat form.
And he additionally dabbled in denim by providing a button-down overshirt, a straight-leg jean and a utility jacket in a pure wash.
Fall additionally marked the launch of two Gansevoort — a collection of elevated knits, fits and outerwear created from child yak yarns, cashmere and wool. The wool knit go well with jacket is unlined and unstructured and paired with wide-leg pleated pants. The sweaters created from yak are as tender as cashmere however have a “bounce” to them as effectively, he mentioned. And the belted wool coat with a throat latch accomplished the message of “New York at night time — dressed and chic, however with an ease to it,” he mentioned.
2 Gansevoort — named after the studio’s deal with in New York’s Meatpacking District — is an extension of the Atelier assortment launched this fall. However whereas the Atelier assortment was higher-priced, 2 Gansevoort is ready to retail on the similar worth because the common assortment, “so everybody can take part,” Andersson mentioned. “We name it disrupting luxurious.”
