Good issues at Dunhill

November 11, 2025

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I’ve at all times had a comfortable spot for Dunhill – in some ways it needs to be the flag-bearer for British luxurious menswear, however there hasn’t at all times been one thing there for me.

Not too long ago, nonetheless, issues appear to have actually improved. I used to be within the Bourdon Home retailer final month and the standard of the knits, the tailoring and significantly the suede outerwear was distinctive. It felt like what I hope to search out at Purple Label, however hardly ever do.

There’s a shearling automotive coat, for instance, that appears comparatively abnormal within the lookbook – an uncommon gray color, positive, and a barely uncommon size, however nothing to leap out at you. However in individual, the shearling is actually substantial, nearly stiff, and there are nice particulars, like calf-leather trim on the cuffs.

Design sensible the gathering appears to take a seat in the midst of a difficult Venn diagram: pure British traditionalism on one facet, outlined by somebody like Cordings; British fantasy on one other, all Polo suede and gray flannel; and that quirky Englishness of florals and brilliant cords.

It’s not a straightforward place to get proper, however they appear to be doing it fairly properly. There’s suede outerwear, for instance, however not as light-weight and comfortable as you’d get from an Italian model; there are brilliant cords however they’re dusty pink and citrine, reasonably than one thing louder.

And most curiously, there are refined modern elements to quite a lot of the cuts. Among the knitwear is a little bit greater, a little bit off the shoulder; some coats are intentionally roomy and flowing. For me that is an space with quite a lot of potential, as a result of it locations Dunhill in a candy spot between the massive vogue manufacturers and the standard outfitters – a spot few individuals are actually occupying.

Basic menswear typically wants a push, however not an enormous one – and that appears to be what the inventive director Simon Holloway is giving it.

Under are a few of my favourites, intentionally chosen from totally different classes. I additionally acquired a while to speak to Simon final month, so I’ve added in his feedback for element.

1: Wool pea coat

The fabric of this pea coat is a thick, English merino, however it’s softer than a extra conventional melton, which may get reasonably board-like. You get the identical feeling of substance with the pocket linings, that are accomplished in robust corduroy on the highest, hand-warmer set, and with the strong brass buttons.

“The collar on a pea coat has to pop, actually rise up, in any other case it’s one thing else,” stated Simon. “We tried so many materials, English and Italian, earlier than we acquired this mixture of durability however softness.”

The match is barely modernised, with a small drop within the shoulder and large match within the chest; conventional pea coats are very a lot straight up-and-down. The one factor I’d change if I might is the Martingale-style belt on the again, however some will most likely like that element.

2: Cashmere intarsia high-neck jumper

Match is the very first thing I’d give attention to right here. As quickly as you place it on, you realise this isn’t actually a chunk of basic menswear – the physique is wider and squarer, the shoulders dropped. It’s slouchy but doesn’t really feel overstyled. It’s much like the form of factor Connolly do of their shared-wardrobe assortment, and the path Loro Piana has trended extra not too long ago with knitwear.

The color is actual menswear navy, very darkish, and the windowpane is satisfyingly uncommon but refined. It’s additionally intarsia knitted, so all these checks have been labored in by hand. “This can be a barely extra modern piece, however it was made in Scotland,” says Simon.

“I believe Dunhill has a freedom in its collections that comes from its assorted previous. We began with driving clothes and automotive equipment, however then did ladieswear at one level, had been greatest recognized for tailoring at one other, and beginning making in Italy within the early seventies. We’ve sought out the perfect in other places and tied it to British custom.”

3: Silk belted night jacket

This tailor-made jacket is a working example, as a result of it has fairly a pointy silhouette but may be very mild, with comfortable canvas within the physique and little or no within the shoulder. The design is a tailor-made jacket that occurs to have a belt. It fastens with common buttons, however you possibly can put the belt spherical for a little bit swagger and even tie it simply on the again.

I’d by no means actually thought of silk for night put on till I attempted on this specific printed navy. “That’s an English silk, printed in Macclesfield,” says Simon. “We’ve pretty subdued colors usually, however I additionally love how these English prints are extra matte than elsewhere.”

The Dunhill tailoring is usually properly made: a hand-attached collar, hand-attached lining, one piece of dealing with across the in-breast pockets. The lapel buttonhole is sewn by hand, which provides an ornamental element, whereas the remainder are by machine.

4: Wool/cashmere double-breasted coat

“This comes from an archive piece from close to the start of Dunhill’s historical past, within the Edwardian period,” says Simon. “The unique was in a heavy tweed, but additionally had a button-out leather-based lining, to behave as a windstopper.”

The fashionable model continues to be an enormous, roomy coat, however the materials is far lighter and softer: a reasonably loosely woven wool/cashmere mix with Donegal-like flecks within the twill. It’s enveloping however not heavy, and fastens up properly throughout the chest and neck. It seems like an archive piece however appears like a recent one.

The minimize gained’t be for everybody, because it’s lengthy and straight and the belt on the again is extra ornamental than purposeful. However that is the purpose in some ways – leaning a little bit extra into vogue means the piece is extra distinctive, which additionally means it isn’t everybody’s model.

5: Mount two-piece leather-based slipper

Grecian slippers have loved a little bit of a resurgence each amongst basic outfitters (eg Bryceland’s) and vogue (eg Lemaire). They match very properly alongside the silk jackets and robes at Dunhill: “ portion of our night put on is aimed on the man who doesn’t need to put on a daily tux, so we give plenty of totally different choices to play with,” says Simon (under).

“Once more we went searching for the best by way of building and that was extra Italian than English – a high-quality calf, a extra versatile building. We additionally labored arduous on the final form, to make it comfy and a little bit extra masculine.

The padding and building are actually very comfy, and the only is made to be wearable outside in addition to in. Actually the one place you get extra stiffness than in some makes is within the heel cup, however that makes it sit higher across the foot as properly.

The costs of the items and precise product names are listed under. It is all costly, however that is what you’d count on from a designer model. The numerous factor for me is that the standard of the merchandise truly lives as much as it – that is a few of the best-made menswear wherever.

And the designs are nice – I would like to personal all of the above, and several other extra items moreover. There are only a few manufacturers I can say that about as we speak.

Particulars, full names and costs, so as: