I Spent a Yr in South Korea—Right here’s My Recommendation to Different Black Vacationers Contemplating Journeys

For Journey + Leisure’s column Touring As, we’re speaking to vacationers about what it’s prefer to discover the world by way of their distinctive views. We chatted with journey blogger Sarah Toyin, who identifies as Black and British, about her experiences—each optimistic and unfavourable—whereas spending a yr instructing in Korea and touring all through Asia. Right here’s her story…  

I beloved airports after I was younger—being in a single meant one other journey journey was about to start. Though I used to be born in London, my household is Nigerian, so we used to return and go to very often, and we might additionally take journeys round Europe. 

Once I was in secondary college, we moved to Kent, which wasn’t essentially the most numerous space on the time. I used to be the one Black lady in my grade, and that’s after I first skilled racism of any sort. At 16, I went to a world boarding college in Ghana, after which I moved again to the U.Ok. for faculty. 

These early years formed how I view journey right this moment. I bought to see totally different individuals and methods of life, so I’ve realized to adapt to new environments. After faculty, I labored for 2 years at my college—however I used to be in search of one other form of expertise, one which allowed me to journey internationally and now have a constant revenue. After listening to about instructing overseas, I went on-line and got here throughout EPIK (English Program in Korea), utilized in February of that very same yr, bought accepted, and began in August.

To be sincere, I didn’t know a lot about life in Korea earlier than I moved there. I had a Korean good friend at my college in Ghana who launched me to Ok-dramas and different popular culture, however I hadn’t even been to Asia. 

So I did my analysis, together with watching YouTube movies. Culturally, South Korea did not seem like something I would skilled earlier than; life appeared so fast-paced, and there have been individuals making an attempt all types of meals I would by no means seen. What reassured me was seeing some Black individuals making content material about their experiences in South Korea, and I assumed in the event that they had been there, it’d be OK for me. Nonetheless, I joined native Korean courses so I might perceive fundamental phrases and phrases earlier than I bought there.

I lived in Ulsan, one of many largest cities in South Korea. A whole lot of foreigners are within the metropolis due to the Hyundai delivery dock, however they do not have a tendency to go to the realm the place I used to be staying. I don’t suppose I met some other foreigners throughout my time there.

One of many first issues I observed was getting stares from the older technology and actually younger youngsters. As soon as a man my age got here as much as me and mentioned, “Yo! Yo! Yo!” in a stereotypical American means. I needed to inform him I’m not American, and he appeared actually confused that I might be each Black and British. 

Most of my college students had been wonderful. They might come up and provides me hugs. However one time, a primary or second grader referred to as me “Africa Saram,” which suggests Africa individual. Then, he referred to as me “dwaeji,” which is the Korean phrase for pig. 

I used to be stunned. I needed to inform his homeroom instructor. She was additionally a traveler, who spent a while in Australia, so she empathized and was upset by the habits. I appreciated that she took the time to elucidate to him why what he mentioned was not OK. He was so younger that it felt like a instructing second for him. 

I spotted in a while I used to be one of many first Black individuals quite a lot of these college students had been assembly. Some would ask questions like, “Why is your palm lighter than the remainder of your pores and skin?” I’d say, “Why is yours not?” and use that to indicate them there are numerous various kinds of individuals and pores and skin tones. Hopefully, they’re going to carry that on with them into the long run.

Throughout my travels round Asia, I’d get a lot of questions on my hair. It was a working theme as a result of I had braids. Within the Philippines, they’d ask if it was my actual hair and the way I styled it. In South Korea, it wasn’t essentially questions, however extra like, “Oh wow, your hair is so cool.” Most curious individuals who requested questions additionally touched my hair. 

Japan was fairly easy, however China was the place the place I bought my image taken very often. In South Korea, they’d ask earlier than snapping a photograph, however in China, they didn’t ask. At first, I simply allow them to take footage, however after some time, it bought to the purpose the place I needed to begin saying, “No, please.” At one level, I used to be in Hong Kong on the Causeway Bay seaside space with a good friend who’s white. Some vacationers from mainland China approached me and mentioned, “Image?” I mentioned, “Positive.” However finally, I had a queue. I did take some footage. My good friend advised me to only say “No,” nevertheless it was exhausting. Ultimately, I did must refuse—I wasn’t the vacationer attraction.

As soon as I used to be on a prepare in South Korea when an older lady noticed me and regarded scared. I don’t suppose I’m scary—I’m 5-foot-1 and small. However she went to the opposite aspect of the prepare. Then, one other aged lady approached me and mentioned, “Yeppeuda,” which suggests, “You’re very stunning.” She noticed what occurred and tried to rectify it, which was good of her. We had a nice little chat. That caught with me as a result of she didn’t must become involved.

Fact be advised, I expertise racism within the U.Ok. and Europe, too. If I did get stares in South Korea, it was extra out of curiosity than maliciousness. I had few experiences that felt deliberately disagreeable. Lots of people might not like being stared at or having somebody developing and touching their hair. I don’t need to say I bought used to it, however I understood it was coming from a spot of curiosity. Once I was ready to answer their questions in Korean, we might have some conversations and that helped. 

I am not fluent in Korean by any means, however after I was there, I made an effort to not less than be capable of have fundamental conversations. Koreans I met had been good about it, so even making an attempt to study the native language does make a distinction.

I don’t suppose most of the individuals I spoke to understood how I used to be British and Black on the identical time. Most individuals initially thought I used to be American. There are fewer Black Brits than Black People, and it appeared like there was a better American presence in South Korea. After which, after all, after I tried to elucidate that I’m Nigerian, individuals didn’t perceive. It was attention-grabbing, to be sincere.

Regardless of all of it, when individuals ask me if they need to go to Asia, I am say, “Go!” 9 instances out of 10, you’re going to have an excellent expertise. You do meet one or two individuals who is probably not the nicest, and it is accountable to inform different vacationers about these encounters as nicely. My recommendation is to go surfing and hearken to quite a lot of tales about touring in Asia. You’ll hear about good and dangerous experiences. As a Black traveler, the one time you really do not need to go someplace is in case you really feel like you are going to be harmed. In the end, how a lot negativity you face depends upon who you occur to satisfy. It is best to go and type your individual opinion firsthand.

I beloved my time in Asia and would do it once more. It was wonderful to have the ability to expertise one other tradition. In fact, there have been instances after I’d put a hoodie up, put my cap on, and simply attempt to mix in.

I went again to South Korea once more just lately. This time I used to be in Seoul, the place there are extra foreigners, particularly within the Itaewon neighborhood. They’re used to vacationers, so I didn’t really feel like I caught out as a lot.

Once I got here again to the U.Ok. after instructing, I used to be in search of kimchi all over the place. Every time my mates and I’d exit, I’d say, “Let’s go for Korean barbecue.” I’d even inform folks that whereas our underground prepare is nice and intensive, I knew it might be even higher after utilizing Korean transportation.

What I realized about this expertise is the world is huge, and there are such a lot of totally different cultures you possibly can discover. Everybody lives in a singular means, and it is wonderful to find out about a brand new tradition, from its historical past to its meals. It’s all about seeing numerous methods of life and studying from new sorts of individuals.