Contained in the pristine and deceptively monochrome Wonders Geneva 2026, a definite line was drawn. To 1 facet stood the everlasting novelties – together with the deep, inky ceramic of the everlasting J12 Bleu, becoming a member of {the catalogue} after 5 years of intense analysis. This assortment was already the topic of our Imaginative and prescient cowl story final yr, however we’re going with a special strategy this time. You see, to know the true, unfettered soul of Chanel watchmaking, one has to step into the completely self-contained world of the capsule assortment. This yr, it’s the Chanel Coco Recreation.
Like all of Chanel’s extremely anticipated capsule collections, Coco Recreation exists individually from the primary novelties. But, to name it secondary can be a profound misunderstanding. Chanel treats its capsules not as an afterthought, however as a sanctuary reserved solely for its most daring inventive expressions and highest degree of watchmaking. As Frédéric Grangié, CEO of Chanel Watches, explains, every part begins with creation, a sketch, and a imaginative and prescient delivered to life by Arnaud Chastaingt and his Watch Creation Studio. Inside Chanel’s manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds, each technical problem turns into a possibility to raise its savoir-faire. The final word expression of mentioned savoir-faire is the capsule assortment.
THE MASTERPIECE OF THE BOARD
The undisputed centrepiece of the 14-piece capsule assortment – and its ignition spark, in keeping with Chastaingt – is The Chessboard, a wide ranging excessive horology masterpiece that discovered a loving proprietor even earlier than Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 opened. Framed as a unprecedented chess recreation, it positions Gabrielle Chanel because the central determine: the Queen who masters the principles and units the tempo.
In line with Grangié, it’s the most advanced undertaking the Maison has ever undertaken, requiring greater than 1,000 hours of improvement on the ceramic alone. The board rests on a black obsidian base, that includes 64 squares of alternating black and white extremely resistant ceramic enclosed by a spectacular row of 516 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Each single recreation piece of this distinctive set has been crafted by combining gold, ceramic, and diamonds in a uniquely Chanel fashion. The 32 items are miniature sculptures referring to the universe of the Home. The 16 black pawns are sculpted in a high-tech black ceramic that’s seven instances tougher than metal, and highlighted by white gold and diamonds. Their opponents are sculpted in pure white gold with a wealth of refined particulars; we cowl this in higher depth within the cowl story however beneath is the tl;dr.
The road-up of items is a collectors’ dream:
• The Kings: Represented by magnificent lions. The white King is snow-set with 764 diamonds, whereas the black King is sculpted in black ceramic and set with 142 diamonds.
• The Bishops: Modelled as elegant couture model busts.
• The Knights: Sculpted as horses rising from bases detailed with Chanel’s iconic quilted impact.
• The Rooks: Hanging miniatures of the Vendôme column.
• The Pawns: Sixteen refined rings of ceramic and gold.
The literal “secret” of the board lies throughout the white and black Queens. Wearing an intricate diamond tweed swimsuit (due to course), these two items conceal high-precision quartz watch actions with 25mm dials hidden beneath their pedestals. The proprietor may even put on them as secret timepieces on an included chain fabricated from white gold, diamonds and onyx.
THE COMPLETE CAPSULE
Past the chessboard, the capsule explores all elements of the gaming universe, enjoying on Chanel’s emblematic codes of line, black, and white.
The proprietary Gabrielle Watch (restricted to 10 items) options Mademoiselle rising from a black-lacquered dial in her iconic pose. Her white swimsuit is rendered in a brand new, patented tweed-setting method. Grangié notes that it required 10 check iterations and two grasp setters to excellent this method, which captures the feel of woven style tweed utilizing hand-set gem stones as if it had been being worn. The silhouette is repeated on the Gabrielle Lengthy Necklace (restricted to 5 items), that includes a gold-sculpted Mademoiselle suspended from a diamond and onyx chain.
The gathering then shifts seamlessly into 8-bit digital gaming nostalgia. The Coco Recreation Lengthy Necklace (restricted to 5 items) reinterprets Mademoiselle as an all-pixel drawing that took 4 months to design, using blackened titanium and 193 diamonds. Chanel is, after all, no stranger to pixel designs, because it has demonstrated through the years however particularly within the Cybernetic fashions, which debuted in 2023.
This digital motif strikes on to the wrist with the J12 Coco Recreation Charms (restricted to 55 items), which suspends a pixelated lacquer attraction from the crown of a matte white ceramic watch. In the meantime, the J12 Coco Recreation 38mm encompasses a pixelated character laser-cut from a carbon plate appearing because the second hand, trotting round a black-lacquered dial. It’s out there in an Haute Horlogerie version set with baguette diamonds, alongside two restricted editions in shiny white and matte black ceramic.
The top of the J12 capsule choices is the J12 X-Ray Coco Recreation (restricted to 12 items). This skeletonized mechanical marvel requires 1,600 hours of sapphire crystal machining and options sapphire hyperlink bracelets crossed by a central line of baguette- minimize diamonds. It homes the manual-winding Caliber 3.1, a motion requiring seven days of meticulous meeting by hand.
The remaining formed items of the Maison (Chanel is among the few watch manufacturers the place we settle for this terminology) additionally be a part of the enjoyable. The Première Coco Recreation Ring (restricted to 5 items) is a double-faced secret ring; one facet shows a big 0.90-carat baguette diamond embedded in sapphire glass, whereas the opposite flips to disclose an octagonal diamond-set Première watch face. For a extra informal look, the Première Coco Recreation watch spells out C-H-A-N-E-L by way of Scrabble tile–impressed white lacquer and sapphire charms swinging from a traditional leather-interlaced chain bracelet. Lastly, in reference to the tokens of dominoes, the Code Coco Recreation contrasts a white quilted leather-based strap with two black dials and a signature Mademoiselle turnlock adorned with a princess-cut diamond.
THE VISION BEYOND TIME
For Chanel, this showcase is proof that creativity goes far past mere aesthetics; it’s embedded in each story and technical breakthrough. By vertically integrating its métiers, Chanel continues to problem the codes of conventional watchmaking. The couture home that broke into watchmaking in 1987 with its personal imaginative and prescient has now created a proud house for its distinctive strategy and identification, provides Chastaingt. The Coco Recreation assortment proves that top watchmaking doesn’t all the time must take itself so severely, even when the underlying craftsmanship is breathtakingly severe.
Flip the web page for our unique, full-length conversations with Chanel Watches CEO Frédéric
Grangié and Watchmaking Creation Studio Director Arnaud Chastaingt. These conversations have been edited for readability, size and language.
BIG PICTURE
As president of Chanel Watches & Superb Jewelry, Frédéric Grangié charts the course for the maison’s inventive drive.
After all, anybody will probably be aware of Chanel, however the message that creativity is paramount for the model in watchmaking is price realizing extra about. Please inform us about this, particularly because it pertains to the Coco Recreation capsule assortment and tremendous watchmaking?
At Chanel, every part begins with creation – a sketch, a imaginative and prescient, an instinct delivered to life by Arnaud Chastaingt and his Watch Creation Studio. From there, the problem is to nurture a tradition the place our experience serves our inventive ambition. The Chanel Watch Manufacture and the Creation Studio work hand in hand; each technical problem turns into a possibility to raise our savoir-faire. That is why we’ve got absolutely built-in all métiers, together with our excessive jewelry workshop, throughout the Chanel Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds. Creativity is our driving drive whilst a younger participant in watchmaking – we carry extra new creations to the market every year than many extra established names.
The Chanel Coco Recreation capsule assortment is an ideal illustration of this spirit. Right here, audacity and playfulness are mixed with absolute product integrity. Take the chessboard, for instance, it’s the most advanced undertaking we’ve got ever undertaken, requiring greater than 1,000 hours of ceramic improvement. Each single piece, all the way down to the smallest pawn, embodies the head of ceramic craftsmanship. To serve our inventive intention, our group even developed a brand new gem-setting method that evokes the feel of tweed, unmistakably a Chanel signature. This system is now being patented, and I consider it’s the primary of its form, actually capturing the essence of tweed as if it had been being worn. For us, the purpose is all the time to construct a dwelling patrimony, continuously elevating our savoir-faire.
We ask this as a result of creativity is far more than design, as showcased within the many distinctive creations that we see yearly but additionally in wristwatches such because the pincushion collection (the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles) and Blush J12 field set. These are solely two examples, however they’re distinctive on this planet of watchmaking. What does this say about Chanel’s imaginative and prescient of watchmaking?
This speaks to the unique inspiration of Gabrielle Chanel: her quest for freedom and her audacity and refusal to be certain by conference. At Chanel, we intention to problem the codes of conventional watchmaking. Each watch we create should mix technical sophistication with refined and distinctive design. Our imaginative and prescient is to supply one thing actually distinctive in a market typically outlined by custom.
However creativity additionally means elevating our savoir-faire and pushing the boundaries of supplies. For instance (past the chessboard famous above), our analysis into ceramic led to the creation of the blue ceramic for J12, a shade distinctive to Chanel, achieved after 5 years of analysis and that’s becoming a member of the everlasting assortment this yr. The Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles was realized with Les Cadraniers de Geneve (see beneath), permitting us to work with the easiest to carry our imaginative and prescient to life. The J12 field Dripping Artwork from the Blush watch capsule assortment showcases how the Chanel world of magnificence might be interpreted in watchmaking, once more additional proving that, for us, creativity goes far past aesthetics – it’s embedded in each story behind each element.
You’ve gotten mentioned that your job is to assist realise the creativity of watchmakers. How do you do that, from the enterprise facet of issues?
My position is to create the best circumstances for creativity to flourish. That is why we pursued vertical integration from the very starting, bringing all key métiers collectively throughout the Chanel Watch Manufacture. We spend money on our personal ecosystem of unbiased watchmakers, all the time supporting and defending the transmission of distinctive savoir-faire. These selections are usually not simply strategic, they’re important. They permit Arnaud Chastaingt and his Watch Creation Studio to push inventive boundaries ever additional, guaranteeing that our relentless pursuit of innovation is matched by technical mastery.
Watches are, historically, understood as masculine objects, however Chanel famously made deep inroads into making issues extra unisex. The technical nature of watches, particularly with reference to mechanical actions, is what attracts many fanatics. What’s Chanel’s expertise right here, particularly with its stake in Kenissi and of the Châtelain Manufacture?
The Chanel Watch Manufacture and our partnership with Kenissi are a testomony to our dedication to technical excellence and independence. By creating our personal actions and mastering each facet of manufacturing, we make sure that every Chanel watch is as achieved on the within as it’s distinctive on the surface.
However for Chanel, watchmaking has by no means been about gender. It’s about individuality and freedom, values rooted in Gabrielle Chanel’s personal strategy to fashion, the place she boldly borrowed from the masculine
wardrobe to create one thing new. Our watches, whether or not for males or girls, replicate this spirit. We intention
to problem conventions, to supply one thing distinctive with out ever compromising on technical excellence.
Chanel can be a significant supporter of unbiased watchmakers and types. For the Monsieur vary, you tapped into Romain Gauthier’s experience. Will you take into account extra such tasks? As long-time followers of MB&F too, we’re reminded that Max Busser by no means claims to be a watchmaker however a creator; this strategy would work very properly for Chanel, or so we predict. What’s your perspective?
Chanel has all the time positioned nice significance not solely on creation itself, but additionally on craftsmanship. The standard of workmanship and the experience of artisans are important to our skill to carry the concepts and designs of our inventive studios to life. In watchmaking, this dedication is embodied by the event of quite a few areas of experience on the Chanel Manufacture in Switzerland, from our gem-setting workshop, to grasp watchmakers able to designing and assembling our manufacture actions, and in addition an unparalleled mastery of ceramic, perfected over the previous 25 years due to the J12 watch, to the purpose of being unrivalled on this planet immediately.
On the identical time, the Maison has made varied investments geared toward supporting and defending unbiased watchmaking and its distinctive savoir-faire. Collectively, these firms type a novel watchmaking ecosystem, permitting our watchmaking inventive studio entry to this wealth of experience. For instance, our most advanced dials are commonly produced by Les Cadraniers de Genève, owned by F.P. Journe (as famous above). The Calibre 12.1 that powers the J12 comes from Manufacture Kenissi. Romain Gauthier certainly contributed to the creation of Calibre 1, Chanel’s first in-house motion. MB&F is an integral a part of this watchmaking ecosystem and possesses a imaginative and prescient of watchmaking that leaves nobody detached. Imagining a inventive encounter between Max Büsser and Arnaud Chastaingt is certainly an exhilarating prospect. Maybe it’s going to occur in the future, however in the end the choice rests with them!
“For Chanel, watchmaking has by no means been about gender. It’s about individuality and freedom”
BLANK CANVAS
Refusing to be certain by shaped concepts presents complete inventive liberty to Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio.
What sparked the Coco Recreation assortment?
Initially, I used to be impressed by one of many basic Chanel codes, black and white, and the duality of the 2. With chess, dominoes, Scrabble, and the like, I rapidly made, previously, a reference to Chanel’s design, as a result of all these recreation items are usually white with completely different graphic parts in black. For his or her design, it’s one thing quite simple, with no ornamentation and no ornament. It’s very straight; very minimalistic. And whereas they’re video games, they’re additionally instruments. There, I discovered one thing that linked with the Chanel philosophy. That’s how the gathering was born.
So, the concept of the fusion of Chanel codes with the aesthetic qualities of video games got here to you a few years in the past?
I believe it was earlier than I began working for Chanel, after I noticed the graphic [design] connection to video games. A very long time in the past, I collected dominoes that I discovered in Parisian flea markets. A few of them might be very outdated and fabricated from ebony and ivory, and I keep in mind noticing that the supplies might type the idea of a Chanel brooch or one thing like that. So, I believe it’s that sort of concept that stays in your head for a very long time, and at last, in the future, you discover the alternatives for instance them in collections.
And proper now is an effective second for this theme, as a result of perhaps you wished to precise one thing about playfulness inside the home?
I don’t know if it’s a query of time [or timeliness]. In creation, typically you will have a sort of obsession. You by no means know why you need that sort of theme at the moment, however yeah, I discovered it was a very good time for instance the theme in my assortment.
How did the gathering take form round this theme?
I believe the chessboard was the start of the undertaking. The plate of the chessboard has this duality of black and white, a really graphic structure. For me, the connection got here in a short time. I’ve been fascinated by these objects for a very long time. In school, a instructor of mine discovered it fascinating to show chess, so I realized and performed chess between the ages of six and 10. You study so much from chess. There’s technique, it develops creativity, and I keep in mind it as an incredible microcosm of the world. You by no means know, whenever you play chess, if the sport will probably be 5 minutes or one hour. So I discovered, too, that the notion of time whenever you play chess is essential, and it was good for me in my inventive course of thereafter to create a metaphor of Le Temps Chanel, or an allegory of Chanel Time, and recreate this Chanel world on the chessboard with Gabrielle Chanel because the queen of the sport.
How did you determine which facet of which recreation to translate into which timepiece? There are such a lot of concerns about the best way to categorical a watch, so how did you mix all these parts and elements and determine which is one of the best ways to include a time- telling component on this type or this mannequin?
It was very pure. The black and white was my first obsession, and I actually wished to have a white-on-black assortment. I can by no means begin creating with no story. I all the time want a narrative earlier than beginning sketches. And as soon as you discover the story you need to inform, it comes collectively in a short time. And that’s when it turns into magical, as a result of, after all, you already know the theme. For instance, after I determined to place the enjoying card with Gabrielle Chanel as a queen of hearts on the Boyfriend, it labored very simply.
So it’s very natural, it virtually feels not possible to elucidate since you’re not analysing it with a line of reasoning; it simply feels apparent that this design ought to be on this mannequin or assortment…
More often than not, my creation is spontaneous. I’ve been doing press interviews for 2 days now, and this yr, I’ve had a variety of questions on inspiration. And it’s very laborious to elucidate the place our inspiration comes from, as a result of more often than not we don’t know. Possibly we observe the world in a different way than others do – I say that with actual humility; I’m not implying that we’re higher. I believe we’re like a sponge, and we soak up every kind of knowledge, and in the future we materialise them.
Creation may be very pure. I all the time say that in essence, my job is 5 phrases: to dream and encourage desires. I’ve a quite simple job, and Chanel is a home of creation. Creation is in the beginning of every part for watches, and so Chanel is an attractive playground territory for me. And at Chanel, we’ve got this manufacture. The primary day I began working for Chanel 13 years in the past, I used to be so stunned that at the moment it was just a little little bit of a secret. And the primary time I found it, I mentioned, Wow, Chanel has so many lovely industrial instruments and on this manufacture, we had developed so many lovely savoir faire. All of the technical individuals who work for Chanel, they completely know the standard tradition of high-end watchmaking, however they know that in the event that they work for Chanel that it’s a home of creation. They’re masters of classical music, however we ask them typically to play electro.
And that second whenever you really feel you’ve arrived on the excellent method or expression, it’s additionally an intuition and never one thing you can analyse with a guidelines.
Yeah, after all. Lastly, when you already know it’s a very good creation with good concord, construction and structure, it’s only a query of emotion.
What are your ideas in your imaginative and prescient of watchmaking readability, and the way do you categorical it?
I believe my private imaginative and prescient and the Chanel imaginative and prescient are completely intertwined. I don’t say this simply since you’re right here immediately, however I’ve been fascinated by Chanel for a really very long time. The J12 linked me with the watch world after I was about 20 years outdated. For a very long time I believed the watch world was not the territory of designers, however Chanel opened my eyes to the very fact it’s very inspiring to work on the watch. At Chanel, we’ve got, I believe, our personal definition on the watch. Personally, I refuse to contemplate {that a} watch is barely a measuring software for time that you just put on on the wrist. After all, it’s, on one degree, however for me, it’s a creation that claims so much about you, it’s an identification marker that can categorical ‘you’ simply, and that’s why I discovered this object so fascinating. And if I need to put time on a hoop, on a belt, on a glove, on a necklace, beneath a stone, after all I’m free to try this, and I’m certain Gabrielle Chanel would have had the identical imaginative and prescient.
Talking of concepts and inspiration, I perceive that you just go to 31 Rue Cambon with some frequency, you favor to not put on your personal watch designs, and also you encourage your group to rotate ceaselessly amongst their private watches. Would you say that this dedication to neutrality and freshness is an important high quality to materialising in your imaginative and prescient?
Thanks, as a result of I take your query like a praise, you already know (laughs). I discover it fascinating that within the watch world, all these manufacturers we’ve got right here immediately have a special imaginative and prescient. However that’s just like the world – everyone’s completely different and it’s good to have folks with completely different factors of view, completely different visions, completely different nationalities.
Concerning the masculine and female codes within the Maison, you’ve talked about how they complement they usually affect one another, and typically there’s a variety of crossover between the 2. For this yr’s watch presentation, how do you see that relationship?
It’s true that Chanel is (the) final female model, that’s already the way in which we go. However the query of gender has actually modified these final years, and immediately, greater than ever. As a result of Chanel typically can break the norms, after I create one thing, I can envision it for ladies or males, it’s true, however I believe extra about fashion than gender. For instance, you possibly can see immediately males carrying a small watch with no [inhibition or hesitation]. Within the story of Gabrielle Chanel, she was impressed by males so many instances. Once you’re a designer for Chanel, you all the time play with this duality between masculinity and femininity.
This text was written by Ken Ke with interviews achieved by Ashok Soman and Zara Zhuang
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #84 Summer time 2026 situation.
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