By Manish Puri.
Subsequent week, for the primary time, we welcome Shanghai-based model Ficus to the PS showroom on Harley Avenue.
Based in 2016, Ficus attracts inspiration from basic Western menswear kinds, however typically presents them with an Jap sensibility. Simon and I had an opportunity to satisfy with the model’s founders and check out on a few of their winter assortment on the January version of Pitti; that was a very fascinating choice and Simon and I each took away their water-repellent ‘Altai’ down jacket.
As Ficus are solely obtainable on-line outdoors China, I believe there will likely be many who will not have had a lot publicity to the model. And while the upcoming trunk present will give London readers the possibility to attempt their spring/summer time assortment in particular person earlier than ordering on-line – with all trunk present orders benefitting from free transport – I personally discover it useful to know slightly about merchandise upfront, simply to orientate myself in a model’s world earlier than arrival.
With that in thoughts, we thought readers would admire a quick overview of a few of my picks from the present season.
On the trunk present there will likely be a spread of warm-weather choices that might complement most informal wardrobes: single-pleated trousers (£193), a light-weight western shirt (£223) and a vest with frog-closure buttons (£404).
The supplies used are good for peak summer time – mild cotton, seersucker and many French linen – and are sometimes pre-washed to present them a comfortable hand really feel.
Ficus have a great eye for color too. The rust purple popover shirt (above, £223) and their blush pink baby-cord shirt jacket (£297) carry pops of color with out ever feeling too dominating or garish.
Nevertheless, of all of the Ficus clothes classes, it’s their outerwear and layering items that catch my eye: their providing working the gamut from trustworthy reproductions of staple items to extra design-led, however nonetheless wearable, iterations.
I’ve highlighted my favorite three beneath – all paired with the identical easy outfit of white tee and washed chinos (the previous from PS and the latter the Massive Chino from Buck Mason).
Within the staples camp is Ficus’s model of a chore jacket: the 5-Pocket ‘Author’ Jacket, made up in a 12oz washed ecru denim.
We’ve written extensively about chore coats on PS, so I sympathise with any readers who’re struggling to decide on between the huge array of choices available on the market. To these folks I’d advise specializing in whichever particulars matter most to you – value, color, materials, type, model – relatively than looking out endlessly for the ‘greatest’ one.
The weather of the ‘Author’ jacket worthy of observe are the patch-flap pocket on the chest (which supplies slightly extra safety to any beneficial objects stored inside it); the distinction corduroy color (which helps the collar really feel softer when popped in opposition to the face and provides texture to forestall the jacket from feeling too scientific); adjustable cuffs (for these with slim wrists or a choice for a snugger cuff); and the washed denim (which doesn’t have the ‘break-in’ interval typically required for extra strong workwear variations).
The scale I’m sporting right here is 48, which – although I’m extra usually a 50 – matches me properly for single-layer, summer time outfits. On that foundation, whereas your common measurement is unlikely to be ill-fitting, I’d advise most readers to measurement down (one thing I very hardly ever recommend).
At £299, the ‘Author’ jacket represents fairly good worth, at a time when some manufacturers are asking near the £500 mark for a chore.
An adjoining piece, and one that almost all efficiently demonstrates Ficus’s ambition to create a dialogue between Jap and Western kinds is the Shanghai jacket (£560) – full with mandarin collar and frog buttons.
At first look, I assumed the material was cotton denim. Nevertheless, Ficus knowledgeable me that it’s really comprised of a French linen which is woven into denim earlier than being stone washed to present its aged, blueish-grey look.
And so, whereas the jacket appears prefer it is perhaps heavy, it really rests very flippantly on the physique. Equally, although it’s the identical measurement (48) and broadly the identical minimize because the cotton denim ‘Author’ jacket, the linen denim makes it that rather more snug to put on as each an outside layer and in opposition to the pores and skin as a shirt/overshirt alternative.
This jacket is certainly one of my favorite objects within the present assortment, however I can absolutely admire it received’t be for everybody, not least resulting from cultural sensitivity. I spoke to the model about this and whereas they acknowledged that concern, they added that: “Chinese language costume has all the time advanced by way of change, adaptation and reinterpretation throughout time. We don’t see considerate and respectful put on as appropriation in itself. Quite the opposite, we see it as a type of appreciation and cultural connection.”
If I could communicate on to appreciation and connection, I (to my discredit) knew little about Shanghai’s historical past, and hadn’t appreciated that town had a French Concession for almost a century between 1849 and 1943. Little doubt that historical past informs the “change, adaptation and reinterpretation” of concepts that underpin this garment – which clearly blends Chinese language custom with French workwear type.
As all the time, the PS reader is greater than able to deciding what’s proper for them, however I do know my cultural horizons have been expanded only a contact by studying slightly extra in regards to the the historical past that suffuses this piece.
The final merchandise I actually like is the Paracel jacket, a design impressed by classic fishing jackets with a reputation borrowed from the Paracel islands – a fishing area within the South China Sea.
The minimize is cropped and boxy – a silhouette that might slot seamlessly into PS contributor Alex Natt’s wardrobe. The sleeve (and this appears to be true throughout a variety of the Ficus outerwear and jackets) is full within the armhole and thru the bicep, however tapers neatly into the wrist. The result’s a really snug match with an incredible vary of movement – supreme, I’m certain, for those who really wished to fish in it – with out ever being too sloppy or flappy by the palms.
The jacket’s visible influence is enhanced by two acidic-orange zip pouches that may be buttoned onto the sleeves. Very similar to the Stone Island patches, I can think about this element being a design-step too far for PS readers. Nevertheless, once more very like Stone Island, for those who do not just like the pouches you’ll be able to merely unbutton them and safe them contained in the hip pockets – which might be fairly a pleasant method to organise smaller objects that might in any other case get misplaced within the tardis-esque inside.
The fabric, a water-resistant nylon in a wealthy forest inexperienced, is completed with a brown faux-suede trim. Whereas I just like the distinction provided by the latter, my solely reservation is that faux-suede can really feel slightly low cost, and I ponder if a snuff corduroy trim might need made this jacket distinctive.
Helpfully I needn’t surprise for too lengthy as that is one of some objects that Ficus is providing on an MTO foundation with the choice to customize cloth and trims. This service normally carries a 15% surcharge, however at some stage in the PS trunk present Ficus will likely be waiving that price, so the jacket will likely be obtainable for £560.
Full particulars of the trunk present are within the flyer beneath, and I hope to see a few of you there subsequent week.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram
