November 13, 2025
The founder shares why elevating $1M wasn’t sufficient
By Noel Walker
A fast Google search of Ami Colé reveals that with $1 million in monetary backing, the model crammed a void, bringing much-needed merchandise to the Black magnificence trade. So when information broke on July 17 that founder Diarrha N’Diaye was closing the model and could be off Sephora cabinets in September 2025, the wonder neighborhood was gutted. N’Diaye‘s self-authored piece in The Reduce requested a query that reverberated throughout the trade: “My magnificence model supplied Black girls shades they couldn’t discover elsewhere. Why wasn’t that sufficient?“
As we speak brings a distinct headline. SKIMS introduced N’Diaye as government vice chairman of Magnificence & Perfume, efficient Nov. 3, the place she’ll lead product growth and model technique for Kim Kardashian’s magnificence enterprise. However weeks earlier than the press launch, N’Diaye sat down with BLACK ENTERPRISE to debate what actually occurred with Ami Colé.
The Therapeutic Mindset and the Sample Recognition Entice
The trail to elevating that million {dollars} started someplace sudden: remedy. Rising up in a Senegalese household the place asking for cash was culturally taboo, N’Diaye discovered herself preventing psychological obstacles earlier than she might even take into consideration pitch decks.
“For me, it took actually virtually like a therapeutic mindset of, OK, why am I asking for cash? I’m not asking for charity, for private profit. That is actually for the enterprise,” she explains to us in an interview. The breakthrough got here from reframing capital solely—not as a handout however as power. “The unlock was serious about capital as power. So if I’m going to carry one thing to life, you actually want a battery to ensure that factor is on, persevering with to go sturdy.”
This psychological shift remodeled how traders perceived her, as a result of in enterprise capital, insecurity has a price ticket. “They’re going to know if you’re feeling insecure in regards to the ask or in case you’re asking for too little,” N’Diaye says. “I don’t assume deserving is the phrase, however I do assume that they will take benefit. There are various things like valuations and different deserves that would simply be reconsidered, otherwise you get the shorter finish of the stick.”
As certainly one of solely 30 Black girls to lift over $1 million throughout the pandemic, she carried statistical weight into each investor assembly. However being a part of that group didn’t imply traders could be lenient. It was fairly the alternative. “It was all the time the elephant within the room. Buyers don’t like to speak about that; there have been so few solo girls of colour,” she reveals. She really needed to be quadruple ready as a result of enterprise capital operates on sample recognition, persevering with to wager on the identical fashions that already work. Most pitches are “we’re gonna be the Uber of XYZ” or “the Glossier of XYZ” as a result of traders want you to plug into frameworks they already perceive. If you’re constructing one thing genuinely new, you’re not simply pitching a product; you’re reeducating traders on why the unfamiliarity issues.
Regardless of working at Glossier in analysis and growth and actively making an attempt to differentiate Ami Colé’s DNA, traders defaulted to the best comparability anyway. “I actually tried to vary their mindframe as a result of I knew that we weren’t going to be on the trajectory of a Glossier, eager to be a unicorn and all these metrics that in all probability wouldn’t be true to this model when it comes to our intention, our velocity, our cadence,” N’Diaye expressed. The comparability caught regardless.
With out entry to friends-and-family funding rounds, a bleak actuality for a lot of Black founders whose communities can’t present that preliminary capital, the stakes felt impossibly excessive. “It felt like actually zero to one million. Like, no in between,” she remembers. She constructed networks by former colleagues, elevating capital concurrently, enterprise panels, and crucially, the Clubhouse app throughout its pandemic peak. This was the start of The Black Magnificence Membership with Tomi Talabi, the place founders like Olamide Olowe of Topicals, Maeva Helene from Bread, and Abena Boamah-Acheampong from Hanahana Magnificence would pop in, sharing notes. After 150 rejections, the funding got here by. However securing the capital was just the start of laborious classes.
What They Don’t Educate You About Retail and Scaling
Touchdown in 250 Sephora doorways seems like validation. N’Diaye discovered that with out understanding retail equipment, even dream partnerships grow to be traps. Trying again, she needs she’d began with 20 doorways as an alternative.
“Ask retailers what’s the naked minimal you may do each for dot com and in-store as a result of they’re two completely different beasts. I promise you, they offers you a advice. Most retailers are grateful that you just’re asking these questions as a result of it reveals a stage of intentionality and need to succeed,” she affirms.
However getting everybody aligned on the similar development technique proved almost unattainable. Sephora operates with sure assumptions about stock and sell-through. Buyers count on completely different trajectories. “You may’t have Sephora agreeing on one factor, however your traders agreeing on one other plan as a result of the mathematics received’t work, somebody’s going to be let down, and also you’re in all probability going to be burned out,” she says. With completely different traders who valued intentional development over explosive scaling, the whole trajectory might need shifted. “I might go a distinct route. I’m a mother of two now. I might not instantly ascribe to that mannequin of excessive development, and I might not accomplish that alone. I do assume that in future ventures, I might begin with a accomplice.”
Then there’s the information hole nobody desires to debate. When Ami Colé carried out inconsistently throughout markets, N’Diaye began asking questions the wonder trade couldn’t reply. She factors out that main companies deployed activity forces to know Latinx customers, conducting on-the-ground market analysis. That very same rigor by no means materialized for Black customers. “I feel there are solely about two to a few Nielsen research on Black consumerism, particularly to magnificence. Even making my deck, I used to be scraping the web, bugging all of my associates who labored at company for entry to their MPD. The data is just not even on the market.”
Essentially the most basic query remained unanswered: the place are Black and brown girls procuring? Sephora, Ulta, Amazon, TikTok outlets, the patterns hold altering. Understanding how procuring habits shifts as Black girls achieve financial mobility exists in group chats and word-of-mouth suggestions, however there’s no centralized analysis. “I don’t assume it’s the model’s full duty to know the market as a result of that’s not true for different markets or firms. If we actually care, let’s sit down, let’s determine it out. Like, I don’t assume anybody’s really doing the work for that.”
The aggressive actuality crystallized throughout a remedy session: “I felt like I used to be constructing a rocket ship with papier-mâché proper subsequent door to NASA.” On one aspect, LVMH-backed manufacturers like Fenty with nine-figure advertising budgets and international infrastructure; on the opposite, Ami Colé with enterprise capital and neighborhood devotion, couldn’t compensate for the useful resource chasm. “Fenty is wonderful, all these LVMH-backed manufacturers give good high quality merchandise, however they’re not touching the neighborhood and speaking to them the best way that I’m, which was a part of our level of differentiation. The issue is scaling that with out the machine. You may make the most effective pancakes on this planet, however in case you can’t afford lease, there’s no extra pancakes for anybody.”
A Completely different Mannequin for Black Magnificence Management
N’Diaye’s appointment as EVP of Magnificence & Perfume at SKIMS represents what she’d already recognized as essential: partnership and infrastructure. Kim Kardashian, who acquired Skkn by Kim from Coty Inc. in March and folded it into SKIMS, recruited N’Diaye particularly for her community-building method. “I need SKIMS Magnificence to be a spot the place everybody feels represented, and there was no higher individual to assist us do this than Diarrha,” Kardashian mentioned in a press launch.
N’Diaye’s imaginative and prescient facilities on what she discovered by Ami Colé. “SKIMS is for everyone, and now we’re making an attempt to create magnificence for everyone,” she mentioned within the press launch. The position affords assets her impartial enterprise couldn’t entry: infrastructure, capital, and the flexibility to scale inclusivity with out doing it alone.
The timing provides weight to what’s been taking place throughout Black magnificence. The category of 2020—manufacturers that emerged throughout the racial reckoning—have confronted unprecedented struggles. Former Glossier grantees Ceylon and The Established have shuttered. Hyper Pores and skin is crowdfunding for survival. The tragedy deepened in August when Sharon Chuter, founding father of Uoma Magnificence, was discovered useless at her Los Angeles house at age 38. On the time, Chuter was in a authorized battle alleging that in her 2023 medical go away, traders used her absence to sideline her and promote Uoma’s property to MacArthur Magnificence with out her consent. The case stays unresolved.
When requested whether or not this sample represents coincidental market forces or one thing extra deliberate, N’Diaye selected her phrases fastidiously.” Hear, we stay in America. We all know that there’s lots of dismantling that we’re nonetheless making an attempt to do, and the system can solely work if it really works on the high. We’re watching DEI being actually erased. So you possibly can’t assist however to assume. I might hope not, on condition that it’s actually 2025. However I can’t assist however be actually observant.”
When N’Diaye advised The Enterprise of Trend that “nobody had the reply to learn how to scale a various, melanin-rich model,” she articulated what the trade refuses to face: these aren’t particular person failures, they’re systemic ones dressed up as market forces. Her new position at SKIMS might provide a distinct mannequin for scaling inclusivity in magnificence. Slightly than impartial Black founders navigating unattainable odds alone, N’Diaye’s place means that partnership with established manufacturers would possibly present the assist construction that enterprise capital alone couldn’t ship. For Black founders watching this journey, her transparency reveals why nice merchandise and devoted communities nonetheless aren’t sufficient when the system itself hasn’t modified.
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